4711 Remix Cologne Edition 2018

4711 Remix Cologne Edition 2018

Well, time flies and we’re nearing the end of August. Today I want to talk about this happy orange bottle. Last year 4711 released something LE they called Remix Cologne Anniversary Edition to celebrate 225 years of their cologne. It smelled of citrus and neroli and petitgrain and I liked it very much (and wow, the review of mine is from exactly one year ago). So this year they came out with a new LE cologne, again called Remix Cologne, but with an added Edition 2018. The bottle looks more modern this time, but still the same style.

Also it smells completely different this time around. The other was still more the typical cologne style, with neroli and lavender, but less harsh than old fahsioned colognes. 2018 is totally orange fizz. No petitgrain, no lavender, absolutely nothing herbal or harsh. This is yummy orange juice with a hint of orange blossom and it softens out into a wonderful light tea note and ends in a little bit of musk. Wonderful and fresh.

This being a cologne the lasting power is around two hours. The musk might linger a bit longer, but honestly the point of a cologne is the top notes, so around two hours I tend to reapply. It’s a 100ml bottle after all.

The 2018 edition is clearly inspired by last year’s remix idea, but if I understood correctly it is supposed to kick off a new series of LE colognes, one per year, each centered around a different ingredient of the original 4711 cologne (2018 representing the orange note). Well I am intrigued and will surely try the next one as well.

Edition 2018 is limited edition (however you can still find bottles of last year’s edition as well so it should not be too hard to get for a while). The perfumer is Nicolas Beaulieu.

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L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Ete en Douce

L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Ete en Douce

Looking at my extensive collection of L’Artisan Parfumeur I noticed there are some I haven’t reviewed yet! As ususal these are the old style bottles.

This is L’Ete en Douce EdT. It drew me in because it was supposed to have a note of hey. And it does! But from the beginning:

Perfumer is Olivia Giacobetti. It was first released in 2005 and is still available. Originally it was called Extrait de Songe, but they changed the name, so if you see a perfume called that, it’s the same as this one.

L’Ete en Douce is a sort of clean perfume, no heavy and dirty notes, and lots of clean musk. But it is not just that since it truly does have the promised hay note as well as some light sweetness from linden blossom and light traces of peppermint… although it is so soft and green-white you don’t really think of it as peppermint. It’s not a mouthwash sort of smell you know.

The whole thing smells like… when Marie Antoinette was going through her pastoral phase playing sheperdess. A very cleaned up rural act with none of the dirt or stink involved. Instead fresh linen and a bed of hay.

It’s an interesting kind of offering in the ‘clean’ genre, which imho is way too big and boring (lots and lots of sharp musks). The hay note is sufficiently realistic. I like.

Guerlain Samsara

Guerlain Samsara

Guerlain Samsara EdT was first released in 1991 (two years after the EdP). My bottle is from 2016, though, one of the last batches before they changed the bottle. As far as I know, the bottle changed but the juice is the same so I have the newest formula.

Samsara is massive. You can smell the connection to the eighties where perfumes were as subtle as a fist to the face. When you’re wearing Samsara, everybody knows it. However, compared to some other huge eighties works, this one is almost ladylike. Almost. Originally I didn’t like Samsara at all. When I smelled it for the first time years ago all I got was soap. Today it’s one of my favorite perfumes and I wear it a lot. Funny how tastes change. I still get soap, but now I also get cozy vanilla, amber, sandalwood. Samsara supposedly has top notes, tbh I never noticed any other than the soapy part. With time it gets more and more ambery in a soft way (I don’t know about you, but some ambers tend to get on my nerves if they’re too strong) and of course from beginning to end there is sandalwood (synthetic, surely).

There are many sandalwood perfumes and there are many eighties orientals but nothing quite smells like Samsara. It’s probably a love it or hate it sort of thing. Luckily there won’t be a lot of people nowadays out wearing it so you’re more likely to annoy people by wearing LVEB (which I’m still smelling at every corner). At least that’s I’m telling myself while feeling fabulous in Samsara.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc

This is Mûre et Musc EdT by L’Artisan Parfumeur. It was first released in 1978, the nose is Jean Laporte. Despite being a niche scent this was and is insanely popular. You’ve probably smelled it before, even if you didn’t know it. I know that when I tried it first in a sample I immediately recognized it, even though I had never consciously smelled Mure et Musc before.

What does it smell like? It’s kind of hard to describe, though. It certainly doesn’t smell like something from the end of the seventies/early eighties, at least to me (my pefume knowledge gets a bit spotty pre-nineties). It gives the promised musc, in a clean way, not too cozy. I think modern musc concoctions tend to pair it with stuff like cashmeran etc to make it clean and cozy. This one here is more laundry detergent, but in a very good way.

Nowadays when a scent promises berries, you know you get that horribly sweet stuff. The berry portion of Mure et Musc though smells a lot more real. Not candy but the actual fruit, fresh from the woods. Because of this I would hesitate to call it a fruity scent, as nowadays you’d expect something different. I really like it though.

I think there’s also a bit of lavender in it, but my nose may deceive me here. Overall, everything gets overpowered by the musc. Luckily it’s a good musc, but you have to be in the mood for it.

Try if: you want to smell like eating blackberries after folding laundry

Flower by Kenzo Eau de Lumiere

Flower by Kenzo Eau de Lumiere

As you can see in ths pic from my haul post, I got several Kenzo samples. One of them is Flower by Kenzo Eau de Lumiere EdT. In fact I got so many of those samples lately that I felt I had to finally do a good testing of it.

Eau de Lumiere is one of the many flankers of Flower by Kenzo. It was released last year, 2017 and the perfumers are Alberto Morillas and Amandine Clerc-Marie. So I’m already a year behind, the newest flanker is Flower by Kenzo Red, released in 2018.

Anyway back to Lumiere. The original is a powdery floral scent. Lumiere also starts with the powder, but sweeter. After this opening you get flowers, jasmine and tbh I’m not sure what else. The jasmine is quite strong and I don’t really like it. And last, some creamy sweetness that is… incredibly boring. I’m so sorry if you like this perfume it’s not bad but so mainstream and for a Kenzo I found that disappointing.

Next.

Kenzo World

Kenzo World

I’ve gotten quite a few samples of this one here since it was released: Kenzo World EdP. The EdP was released in 2016. Last year they released an Intense flanker and this year the EdT. But I’m super behind the times and so I’m only now reviewing the EdP. The nose is Francis Kurkdjian.

World was mostly known for it’s unusual TV spot and the bottle design. Tbh I don’t get why you name a perfume World and then give it an eye bottle. I don’t know about you but I wouldn’t put that thing on my dresser.

Anyway, let’s move on to the juice. World has only three official notes: peony, jasmine and ambroxan.

It starts off extremely sweet in a sticky variety. It smells like overdosing on gummy candy. I guess gummy perfumes have their audience. That audience is not me. It takes half an hour for that to get more quiet, but the sticky sweetness never goes away completely. Only then the ambrox has a chance to get through. To me it smells more like a cashmere-y variant of ambrox. It doesn’t have much to to with ambre gris (ambroxan is the synthetic stuff originally made to replicate ambre gris, which is that whale stuff). Overall ambrox isn’t too noticeable. In fact I believe many people may be anosmic to it, just like musc anosmia is very common. This could lead to people thinking the perfume doesn’t smell anymore and reapplying it over and over. For this reason I hope it won’t be a bestseller because while I can live with the later parts of this perfume, an overdose of the beginning is something I wouldn’t want to smell on anyone.

I’m aware my beloved Kenzo Jungle is just as obnoxious, but that’s just more up my alley. Sorry.

On the upside Kenzo made an interesting perfume by reducing the formula so much. Most perfumes have much more going on, while World is bare bones. At least Kenzo are trying to come up with new things while everyone else is busy copying LVEB.

Serge Lutens Serge Noire

Serge Lutens Serge Noire

No, this is not a promo pic. This is my living room shelf. Took me only two years to realize it might be a good background.

The bottle is Serge Lutens Serge noire EdP. This is the old 50 ml bottle. The new ones look a bit different. After I took the pic I put in the sprayer, so now it looks a bit different. I like how some brands give you the option to either spray or use it as a splash bottle.

This is my first Serge Lutens. I’ve been sampling them in the store on and off, but could never decide which one to get. In the end, Serge noire won because it was the most different from what I already owned.

Serge noire was released ten years ago, in 2008. Perfumers are Christopher Sheldrake and Serge Lutens.

I don’t know what the offical notes list is. Serge Lutens has a tendency for the sort of marketing babble I have no patience for. So here’s what I think I’m smelling:

Incense which fades out softly (the whole perfume is very long lasting with good sillage), amber and vanilla (the vanilla may be part of the amber mix). Something spicy I can’t put my finger on. Not cumin or cardamom, not pepper. Later on I get some cinnamon.

The perfume is weirdly transparent, as in it’s actually quite strong (like I said, sillage and lasting power) yet it’s not as clogging as a strong perfume can be. Maybe because it lacks any flowers. Flowers can feel suffocating.

Wearing Serge noire makes me feel competent, like I can take anything on. It’s warm, yet at the same time keeps it’s distance.

I like it a lot and that’s bad because now I don’t know if I found my one hit wonder from Serge Lutens or if I should go hunt some more old bottles…

Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

Happy Friday 13th. 🙂

This cute and tiny bottle is Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil EdT. This was first released in 2005, perfumer is Jean-Claude Ellena. Like most Jardins this smells kinda green. And like most Hermès, this is light footed and airy. It does still last about five hours on me (just very light).

Have you ever plucked tomatoes from the stem? It smells like that, except with added citrus. Very refreshing yet weirdly enough, kinda super elegant. When the zesty citrus leaves I smell something lightly sweeter (in comparison, not generally sweet). But I really can’t put my finger on it. It could be any note.

Right now I am in the mood for that kind of thing. Winter has gone on long enough. It’s not the sort of perfume I could wear everyday (I could wear no perfume everyday, that sounds so boring) and I think when I wear it too often I also stop noticing the smell. But once a week or whenever it is such a refreshing perfume. It’s funny because usually I’m not into green perfumes, but I do like citrus, so that works out somehow.

Try it if: you feel like you need a cool unsweetened drink.

New perfumes quick reviews

New perfumes quick reviews

There has been a slew of new releases – most of them flankers – and I’m just doing some real quick reviews of first impressions in no particular order.

Guerlain Mon Guerlain Florale: I literally can’t smell the difference between this and the original one??? Not necessary to own both.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Intense: bland, lifeless patchouli and uninspired flowers. Also very similar to original, except stronger.

Gucci Bloom Acqua di Fiori: now I love, love, love the original Gucci Bloom, so I eagerly grab the bottle from the shelf and – WHAT IS THIS??? It smells nothing like Bloom, which okay, I was just complaining about flankers that are too similar but, this! It’s completely green and fresh and not bad, but where’s the sweet creaminess of Bloom? It’s a galbanum bomb, check it out if that’s what you’re looking for. If you want pompous flowers, stick with original Bloom.

Valentino Donna Rosa Verde: green tea perfume. vair good. Just a bit of citrus and ginger. Good enough to drink all day long. Bvlgari has similar stuff so you probably don’t need both. Best of the new releases methinks. Excuse me while I’ll fix myself a cup of tea.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Passiflora: fruity shampoo from expensive hair salon. My sis went through the whole lot of Aqua Allegorias and chose last year’s Bergamote Calabria to buy instead. She was right to do so.

Thierry Mugler Aura: starts out green and minty, turns vanillic orange blossom later on. Certainly different, not as intense as Alien or Angel. Probably a love or hate thing, as often with Mugler. I like it, but not enough for a bottle.

Dior Posion Girl Unexpected: Flanker of a flanker. Sweet with salty note in the beginning. Everything I should hate. But I kinda really like it? The start has a cinnamon swing to it as well, or something that smells a bit like winter cookies. Sadly, later on it becomes a very generic sweet perfume. Could as well be Christina Aguilera. Also the new 20ml bottles have a roll-on instead of a sprayer! That’s terrible! I’d love to buy 20ml bottles, but not without spray!!!

 

And that’s all for todays real quick reviews. Hope you enjoyed, see you later.

Jil Sander Simply Elixir

Jil Sander Simply Elixir

I loved Jil Sander’s Simply EdP and after going through several samples and still loving it years later I went to the store expecting to buy a full bottle of Simply EdP (the black bottle). Behold:

Yeah, that’s the flanker. This is Simply Jil Sander Elixir EdP. I mean I didn’t accidentally buy the flanker it just kinda happened, as they’re both quite good and this one was on sale and the other wasn’t…

Elixir was released in 2017, perfumer is Christophe Raynaud.

Compared to the original this one has more vanilla and less violet. There’s more wood and powdery iris which I don’t think I detected in the other one. As leather perfumes go this is a very gentle one. I mean I have some niche stuff and their leathers smell quite different (much harsher).The Bottega Veneta leather perfumes are also stronger on the note. Honestly this more a woodsy powdery vanilla than a leather perfume.

Overall I love it and find it very cozy. Wearing it makes me feel so good like everythings going to be alright. (My mum used to wear Jil Sander when I was smaller, so maybe that’s why…)

I like that Jil Sander keeps releasing mainstream perfume that does not smell like cotton candy. Go, Jil Sander! Going back to the original I feel like Elixir is softer and sweeter and maybe more mainstream than Simply. Simply is cooler due to the violets and some green stuff in it that Elixir does not have. They do smell similar though which is why I went home with Elixir in the end. It’s entirely possible that I pick up the other one later on as well, we’ll see.

I’d say this is a great workplace perfume if you are mindful the doseage, except in my workplace we wear all kinds of heavy stuff so I may be off base here.

All Used Up February 2018

All Used Up February 2018

Another month is over and actually… it took me more than half a month to post the results… again. Anyway, here we are, my empties of the month february:

Balea Handcreme zur Oktoberfestzeit. It’s me, dandygal. Of course there is empty handcream. This one smelled of orange blossom and vanilla so it was quite a winner for me. The texture was on the dry side but not too dry. Obviously this was LE so no repurchase possible.

essence camouflage make-up & concealer: this little thing is the best foundation I have come across so far and it costs like 3 €. Already repurchased because with essence you never know when they’ll discontinue your fav item. Downside of this foundation: it comes in exactly three shades, all of which are light. Boo. Review is here. I liked it even better the more I used it, the issues with it separating from my skin in heat did not happen again last summer.

Yves Rocher Monoi de Tahiti hair & body wash: Yves Rocher only sells this during summer months. Last time I ran out of this I missed it so badly that this time I stocked up on like four bottles to last me the year. It’s one of my favorite shampoos. Repurchase likely but first I must use up the stash, haha.

Dior J’Adore L’Or: Yeah this was just a tiny sample but I liked it a lot. Not enough to shell out for a full bottle though. Review is here.

Olaz dark circle correcting swirl eye: that’s a mouthful. I liked it a lot. It promises instant effects and like always, when a product says that you know there’s going to be fine shimmer in it and there was. It was not too strong though, you could wear this and not put makeup on top and it looked fine. I might repurchase this in the future, but for now I have something else. In part because when I went to the drugstore they didn’t have this anymore. This happens to me with Olaz products all the time, they pop in and out of existence. Then I think they’re discontinued but months later it’ll be there again. Idk.

And last, more Balea stuff. You’re going to see this turqouise design a lot. This was from their advent calendar, which was full of skin care. Therefore, all products in this design were LE.

Let’s start with the body lotion: it claimed to have Chai Latte scent and it did smell like that. The texture was sticky and too liquid so while I liked the scent I wouldn’t repurchase the lotion (if it weren’t LE). It was nicely moisturizing, though.

Then there were two face masks. Both are the kind you put on and later on wipe off with a cloth. I washed them off because tbh it feels gross when you don’t. These made me realized again why sheet masks are just that much better. The After Sport mask was okay (although – does anyone ever use a mask after sport? Really? When I’m done in the gym a shower is the most I can manage. I don’t even use body lotion afterwards, much less something as fancy as a mask). However three days after use I got small pimples. I used it again and the same thing happened so I dumped the rest. I think it’s because there was a lot of alcohol in it (which on the other hand helped a lot with the texture).

The Verwöhnmaske on the other hand was just plain awful. It burned and we’re not talking the kind of tingling you get when using AHA. I washed it off after three minutes and did not try again. DO NOT RECOMMEND. It claims to have jasmin and chai tea axtract which is the sort of thing you’d put into a perfume, not put it on your face undilluted!

Those were my empties of last month. Thanks for reading. Expect more handcream next month. XD

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer (Eau d’Encens)

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer (Eau d’Encens)

Whoa, a full week of posts from me? What is happening??? I hope it means I’m up to keeping schedule again. Anyway, today is Friday which means fragrance review:

On my continuing quest of picking up aaaall the discontinued bottles, here is L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer EdT. It was first released in 1999 and the nose is Olivia Giacobetti.

This thing is an incense perfume. It vaguely reminds me of cold, dusty churches. It also has some woods in, like cedar (or maybe I’m imagining it and it’s an aspect of the incense I’m not sure) and maybe sandalwood. If it has flowers in I’m not smelling them.

Don’t get me wrong, I like this fragrance but it’s something you have to be in the mood for and I’m not really sure what that mood is. Possibly “I’m a six hundred years old vampire here to f*ck sh*t up”.

All the other perfumes I have with incense in feel warm, like they’re made more cozy with amber, or in the case of Timbuktu made so dry it feels like a summer evening when there has been no rain in weeks (/months/years). But Passage d’Enfer is cold and dry which makes it interesting, but also rather specific.

On my skin it lasts about five hours, then it is still there but gets progressively weaker.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha

L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha

After the last couple of weeks I needed a break from the sweet and/or flowery perfumes. Therefore it was time to go back to niche:

This is Dzongkha EdT by L’Artisan Parfumeur, as always, the old bottle design. Perfumer is Bertrand Douchafour. It was released in 2006.

Dzongkha is a language spoken mainly in Bhutan, but also India and Tibet. L’Artisan have a few perfumes inspired by the perfumer’s travels (see: Timbuktu etc) so I guess that’s the case here. I’ve never been in Bhutan so I can’t tell you if it is in any way accurate.

First thing I smelled was tea. I excitedly held my wrist under a friend’s nose, declaring: “TEA!” and they were like “that’s not tea, not in a hundred years.” At that point I remembered most people don’t take their black tea as bitter as I do. I’m talking strong Ceylon, with too many leaves and stewed for too long. Then you forgot all about the tea and rediscover it hours later. That’s what Dzongkha smells like. Wonderful!

Of course that’s not all. There’s also leather and vetiver, some incense. It’s bitter and exactly the palate cleanser I need after one too many sweets.

Worth a try if extremely bitter smoky tea sounds like a thing you might want. But it’s surely not for everyone.

Gucci Bloom

Gucci Bloom

Whoa, what do you mean, the first month of 2018 is already over? What the heck?

Okay so I super didn’t like Gucci’s previous new perfume, Bamboo. Imagine my surprise when I ended up buying their next release the week after it came out? But that’s what happened. This is Gucci Bloom EdP, released in 2017. Perfumer is Alberto Morillas.

The bottle is very simple but I find it elegant. The label on the front is textured, which looks very nice. The bottle is pretty heavy, mostly because there’s a magnet in the cap. I don’t usually think a lot about the names of perfumes but Bloom really is very fitting I guess. I also love the design on the cardboard packaging.

The smell is… hold your breath… tuberose. Again. 🙂 I can’t help myself, once I got over it I loved tuberose and had to get a small army of tuberose perfumes. This is mostly tuberose and jasmine and… honestly I’m not sure what else. I don’t get a distinctive base here, it’s just heavy flowers all the way. And it’s just so good. It’s like they had to keep all the good quality for Bloom , so there was nothing left for Bamboo other than thin laundry detergent. Sorrynotsorry.

Bloom lasts for about five to six hours in the intense stage and then another five on the cool down. You know, when it’s still there, but only if you take your wrist up to your nose.

A similar release to Bloom is Prada La Famme Intense, but that one has more stuff going on on the sidelines. Another tuberose release of 2017 was Hermes Twilly, which is also similar but more bubblegum pink in my nose. I liked them all, but in the end I sprung for Bloom.

Worth a try if you are into tuberose and jasmine and a total no-no if you hate these flowers.

YSL Cinéma

YSL Cinéma

This is a bottle of YSL Cinéma EdP. It was released in 2004, perfumer is Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. I don’t say this often but I really like the bottle design, even though it was hard to photograph (the Cinema in the front kept vanishing).

Cinema is a vanilla perfume. There is of course more to it but to me the vanilla always is on the front. I remember in 2004, when I bought Pure Poison I had also tested this one and was like, maybe I’ll buy Cinema when the Poison is empty. Today, in 2018, I look at my huge collection and the bottle of Pure Poison that is still not used up and laugh. But it still describes my preference for scent notes well. First is always orange blossom/neroli, next love is vanilla.

Anyway, Cinema is not just vanilla and there are flowers in it although I don’t think it has orange blossom. Jasmine is there I think. Amber and almonds, rounding the vanilla experience. And there’s something else in it, that gives it a bit of an old fashioned edge. I think that was intentional to make it seem a bit older as the name is Cinema and they probably wanted to evoke thoughts of Hollywood Glamour and olden time red carpet divas? But I can’t put my finger on what it is that gives off that vibe. It’s not really soapey, but a little bit clean – okay, maybe it’s just a kind of musk I get there. There’s also something a little but fruity, sweet like syrup.

It’s really nice, not a huge must have, though. It depends on whether you want a vanilla at all and what sort. Back in 2004 I didn’t know Shalimar but I do now and if you told me to pick just one vanilla, it wouldn’t be Cinema. It is a nice sort of glamour perfume, though. It makes me feel like I should be wearing a ball gown and I don’t even own any gowns. I think it’s a good perfume for big occasions, because it is not super loud and intense. It is sweet and present and hopefully won’t annoy other people too much. It’s probably one of the gentlest perfumes with jasmine I’ve ever smelled. I guess I should start wearing it to the movies every now and then. Not always though; that would get boring fast.

And that’s it. Despite the great bottle, the perfume is a bit plain. Not bad, not great, but it has the potential to annoy with its bland loveliness. I like wearing it every couple weeks, but wearing it everyday for the sake of this review took a bit of a toll on me, sorry about that. It’s really not a bad perfume. I’ll just shut up now. Have a lovely weekend, see you next week.

Madonna Truth or Dare

Madonna Truth or Dare

I think two years ago I did not even know what tuberose was. One year ago I knew how it smelled like and thought it was good, but too heavy for me. Today… not only do I like it now, I own several tuberose heavy scents.

That I own Madonna Truth or Dare EdP is an accident, though. A friend thought she was ordering the flanker which smells completely different only to open it and realize it was the regular one. So it was passed down to me. I remember trying it in the store before and it being way too heavy. I thought it was the tuberose but today I think it might have been the vanilla. Truth or Dare is a combination of tuberose and vanilla. Each of those alone can have strong character, together they are quite the diva scent. Through in some sweet amber and you can see how past me and probably several other people can find it overwhelming. But since I got used to it now I find it quite wearable – one spray is enough, though!

Not only is the scent quite strong, it also lasts half an eternity. Or at least 12 hours.

This is certainly one of the better celebrity scents and used to be easily available for cheap. I’m not sure, to be honest, if it is still available? But if it is and you like the idea of flowers with a lot of vanilla/vanillary amber, this is a good choice.

Truth or Dare was released in 2012.

Guerlain Insolence

Guerlain Insolence

I hear the Pantone color of the year is Ultraviolet. Except, when you look at their colored square, it seems just plain violet to me? Well, whatever floats their boat. Last year I posted my fav color combinations. This year I like them all, so I’ll just link to the official site instead: here. You’ll have to scroll down a bit to the combinations.

I hope we get some lovely nail polish collections out of that. But it’s friday, so let’s talk about perfume!

This sculptural thingy here is Guerlain‘s Insolence EdP. It was released in 2008, perfumer is Maurice Roucel. The EdP followed the EdT released in 2006.  So this year we celebrate the ten year anniversary of the EdP. Very recently Guerlain has repackaged several of their perfumes, including Insolence. They are now only available in frosted bee bottles. While the bee bottles are very pretty, it also means no more 30 ml sizes. So, just like I did with all the L’Artisans I own, I snagged up the old bottle when it went for cheap. I’m not sure if I’ll do it with the others, too. Maybe Samsara.

Many fans of Insolence are sad to see the special bottle go. Personally, I’m not overly atached to bottle designs. As far as I can tell from testers, the juice remained unchanged, so it seems this was only a repackaging so far, not a reformulation (yet).

Insolence is a violet perfume. It’s a powedery, intense violet. I think back when they released it – and maybe still today, violet was suuuper old fashioned. And Guerlain was like, so what and released a super intense violet. Those were the days. The EdT, which I am not reviewing because I don’t have it, is sweeter. The EdP is mostly powedry flowers: violet, iris, a tiny hint of orange blossom. There’s a tonka bean in the base (well, it’s a Guerlain) but this stays a violet through and through.

A single spray of this is enough to fumigate a whole room. It lasts up to twelve hours, usually there’s no need to reapply. It’s also pretty distinct, everyone who ever knowingly smelled Insolence will recognize it. However, not enough people wear it to make it annoyingly familiar (hello, LVEB).

I love it, because it makes no compromise. It doesn’t chase after trends.

I suggest you try it carefully, because this is a love it or hate it thing and you wouldn’t want to run around with an intense scrubber on your wrist.

Lolita Lempicka Sweet

Lolita Lempicka Sweet

Sooo, when I got Lolita Lempicka EdP I did a double tap and snatched up this one here, too, just in case they would vanish again. They were 50% off, so it was really two for the price of one. 🙂

Sweet EdP by Lolita Lempicka was released in 2014, perfumer is Anne Flipo. Don’t get it confused with its 2016 flanker, called So Sweet, which looks similar, but smells differently. Anne Flipo has created many masterpieces and also many sweet smelling bestsellers, sometimes those categories even overlap.

Sweet is really the sort of perfume I usually hate. The name is program, it’s a sticky sweet synthetic thing. Yet it’s nowhere near as screechy as LVEB (also by Flipo) or as annoying as Manifesto (also Flipo). It’s cherry candy with a little bit of cocoa later on, elegant iris (??? how does that even work), and as base some musk and cashmeran. It shouldn’t work, but it does.

I wouldn’t go as far as calling it a masterpiece – I mean it’s a bright red cherry candy bottle and it smells like that, too. I think the Lolita Lempicka EdP is more of an intriguing thing, more complex, so if I’d call any Lempicka perfume a masterpiece it would be that one. But damn, if Sweet isn’t a real good drugstore perfume. Many drugstore perfumes, even those that cost far more, have a terrible cheap base like thin fabric softener. This one has actual quality base to it. If I put Sweet in a LPRN bottle and told you it was the newest flanker, you’d believe me. You would hate the perfume, because for a Guerlain it’d be terrible, but you would believe me.

But still, only try this if sticky sweet cherry with cocoa sounds like a good idea to you. Otherwise, stay away.

For me I’m wearing it when it’s sub-zero Celsius. When it’s warm, it’s a bit much. But I’ll totally keep it.