L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Ete en Douce

L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Ete en Douce

Looking at my extensive collection of L’Artisan Parfumeur I noticed there are some I haven’t reviewed yet! As ususal these are the old style bottles.

This is L’Ete en Douce EdT. It drew me in because it was supposed to have a note of hey. And it does! But from the beginning:

Perfumer is Olivia Giacobetti. It was first released in 2005 and is still available. Originally it was called Extrait de Songe, but they changed the name, so if you see a perfume called that, it’s the same as this one.

L’Ete en Douce is a sort of clean perfume, no heavy and dirty notes, and lots of clean musk. But it is not just that since it truly does have the promised hay note as well as some light sweetness from linden blossom and light traces of peppermint… although it is so soft and green-white you don’t really think of it as peppermint. It’s not a mouthwash sort of smell you know.

The whole thing smells like… when Marie Antoinette was going through her pastoral phase playing sheperdess. A very cleaned up rural act with none of the dirt or stink involved. Instead fresh linen and a bed of hay.

It’s an interesting kind of offering in the ‘clean’ genre, which imho is way too big and boring (lots and lots of sharp musks). The hay note is sufficiently realistic. I like.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc

This is Mûre et Musc EdT by L’Artisan Parfumeur. It was first released in 1978, the nose is Jean Laporte. Despite being a niche scent this was and is insanely popular. You’ve probably smelled it before, even if you didn’t know it. I know that when I tried it first in a sample I immediately recognized it, even though I had never consciously smelled Mure et Musc before.

What does it smell like? It’s kind of hard to describe, though. It certainly doesn’t smell like something from the end of the seventies/early eighties, at least to me (my pefume knowledge gets a bit spotty pre-nineties). It gives the promised musc, in a clean way, not too cozy. I think modern musc concoctions tend to pair it with stuff like cashmeran etc to make it clean and cozy. This one here is more laundry detergent, but in a very good way.

Nowadays when a scent promises berries, you know you get that horribly sweet stuff. The berry portion of Mure et Musc though smells a lot more real. Not candy but the actual fruit, fresh from the woods. Because of this I would hesitate to call it a fruity scent, as nowadays you’d expect something different. I really like it though.

I think there’s also a bit of lavender in it, but my nose may deceive me here. Overall, everything gets overpowered by the musc. Luckily it’s a good musc, but you have to be in the mood for it.

Try if: you want to smell like eating blackberries after folding laundry

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer (Eau d’Encens)

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer (Eau d’Encens)

Whoa, a full week of posts from me? What is happening??? I hope it means I’m up to keeping schedule again. Anyway, today is Friday which means fragrance review:

On my continuing quest of picking up aaaall the discontinued bottles, here is L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer EdT. It was first released in 1999 and the nose is Olivia Giacobetti.

This thing is an incense perfume. It vaguely reminds me of cold, dusty churches. It also has some woods in, like cedar (or maybe I’m imagining it and it’s an aspect of the incense I’m not sure) and maybe sandalwood. If it has flowers in I’m not smelling them.

Don’t get me wrong, I like this fragrance but it’s something you have to be in the mood for and I’m not really sure what that mood is. Possibly “I’m a six hundred years old vampire here to f*ck sh*t up”.

All the other perfumes I have with incense in feel warm, like they’re made more cozy with amber, or in the case of Timbuktu made so dry it feels like a summer evening when there has been no rain in weeks (/months/years). But Passage d’Enfer is cold and dry which makes it interesting, but also rather specific.

On my skin it lasts about five hours, then it is still there but gets progressively weaker.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha

L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha

After the last couple of weeks I needed a break from the sweet and/or flowery perfumes. Therefore it was time to go back to niche:

This is Dzongkha EdT by L’Artisan Parfumeur, as always, the old bottle design. Perfumer is Bertrand Douchafour. It was released in 2006.

Dzongkha is a language spoken mainly in Bhutan, but also India and Tibet. L’Artisan have a few perfumes inspired by the perfumer’s travels (see: Timbuktu etc) so I guess that’s the case here. I’ve never been in Bhutan so I can’t tell you if it is in any way accurate.

First thing I smelled was tea. I excitedly held my wrist under a friend’s nose, declaring: “TEA!” and they were like “that’s not tea, not in a hundred years.” At that point I remembered most people don’t take their black tea as bitter as I do. I’m talking strong Ceylon, with too many leaves and stewed for too long. Then you forgot all about the tea and rediscover it hours later. That’s what Dzongkha smells like. Wonderful!

Of course that’s not all. There’s also leather and vetiver, some incense. It’s bitter and exactly the palate cleanser I need after one too many sweets.

Worth a try if extremely bitter smoky tea sounds like a thing you might want. But it’s surely not for everyone.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10

Mon Numero 10 EdP by L’Artisan Parfumeur comes from an originally limited edition and was included in the regular lineup in 2014. I still have the older, pre-black bottle era packaging.  The 30 ml size has the same cap as the bigger perfumes, making the bottle look even smaller. Perfumer is Bertrand Douchafour.

Personally I love it lots and lots and I’m honestly confused that I haven’t reviewed it before, since it was my second ever Artisan bottle??? It is a hefty dose of cinnamon with a bit of wood, lots of tonka and some unlit incense. You know, like, it’s not smoky but incensy, like how incense smells completely different once lit? It’s perfectly suited for cooler weather when you want something cozy, but not too cozy. The incense gives it character; this isn’t a fluffy cloud. I guess for some people the scent might fall apart as the ingredients differ a lot, but for me it just about works out as a whole.

The official notes list on the packaging says: “incense, cardamom, leather, tonka bean”.

Uh, okay? I’m not getting leather, not compared to my real leather paerfumes. Cardamom, sure why not. But I’m confused they don’t list any cinnamon as to my nose that’s really the major component? But who knows, maybe it’s my nose that’s out of alignment.

Try this if: well, if you can find it in the first place, but mostly if you’re looking for an unsweet cinnamon offering. I mean yes there’s plenty of tonka bean but it’s still less sweet than a Guerlain, for example.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh

L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh

Boah, people say. What is that stink?

Firstly, that’s L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh, and secondly it smells awesome, I say.

No, okay Oud is an acquired taste, maybe, and Al Oudh doesn’t pull it’s punches. Those in the niche perfume fandom, on the other hand, are already all over the oud hype. Yawn, how boring, they say. As usual, it’s a thing of perspective.

Al Oudh was released in 2009, eight years ago, sorta at the start of the oud trend in niche perfumery. Perfumer is Bertrand Douchafour.

This time the notes list on the packaging is in french only so I don’t understand much. Oudh, boise, epice, cuire, it says.

So my nose gets oud and leather and also a healthy dose of dates. Spices, maybe and I’m really not sure of the rest. I think it’s a mixture of a lot of things but I can’t pick them out.

Overall Al Oudh is pretty strong and just weird for the non-oud initiated. But I’ve worn it to work and nobody complained, so (they might not have realized it was perfume). The strong phase goes on for about four to five hours. The dry down is much gentler, more sandalwood, maybe or some other woods.

Personally I really like it for when I feel like oud. I have not felt the need to own any other oud (because lets face it, they’re not different enough). Also had I smelled this one before I smelled Guerlain Santal Royal I would have been a lot less forgiving for Santal Royal. Al Oudh is coherent. Santal Royal is a mess compared to it.

As usual I have the old bottle but I think the juices are unchanged.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

So my perfume review process works something like this: I’ll wear a new perfume on and off when I feel like it and when I think I’m ready to review it I’ll be wearing it everyday until the review is done.

I was ready to review Nuit de Tubereuse EdP (L’Artisan Parfumeur) weeks ago. I’ve been wearing it everyday for three weeks. XD Mostly because of my heatwave induced blogging pause but also because I like it so much.

As always, I have the old bottle design. The liquid is light grey, the sticker and outer packaging are pink.

Weren’t you a Tuberose phobic, you might ask. Yes, I was. And still many a famous tuberose is too heavy for me. I didn’t even dare test Nuit de Tubereuse until I read a review which critisized it for not being a tuberose perfume. Oh, I thought? Why is it called Nuit de Tubereuse, then? Looks like this was created under a different working title, but then they had to change the name in a hurry for legal reasons (I assume the working title was used by a diff brand). So, hey, worth a sniff for the tuberose phobic.

First impression is very green but in a flowery way, not a herbal or foresty way. Then flowers, lovely flowers. And yes, here comes the dreaded tuberose; why were people complaining for a lack of tuberose? There’s plenty, at least enough to be smelling it through the whole time it lasts (about six hours). But – it’s not cloying or oppressing. I like this tuberose, which pairs an intense flower with light greenery.

The official note list printed on the packaging reads: pink pepper, tuberose, green mango, woods.

Now, that’s a pretty short list and I bet my collection there’s more flowers in it. Surely some orange blossom + rose, not sure about jasmin or ylang ylang. I have no real clue what green mango smells like, only that it’s also a note in Timbuktu, which smells nothing like Nuit de Tubereuse. XD There are probably some types of amber and musk (what perfume doesn’t contain musk?) in the dry down. I don’t think it smells particularly woody at all.

But it smells good, so good. It smells like the first rain after a heat wave – or is that just because we are having rain right now, haha. But I bought this bottle almost a year ago (time flies) and it works all year round. I am now officially no tuberosophobic anymore. 😉

Nuit de Tubereuse was released in 2010, perfumer is Bertrand Douchafour.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Fou d’Absinthe

L’Artisan Parfumeur Fou d’Absinthe

We are currently going through an unusual heatwave over here. My ususal go-to scent when it’s hot is a citrus cologne. But there’s only so much citrus cologne you can wear until you get bored. So I pulled out my little bottle of L’Artisan Parfumeur Fou d’Absinthe EdP. Funny thing about their bottles (at least the old bottles – I still don’t own one of their new design) is that the golden cap is always the same size, no matter if the bottle is 100ml, 50ml or 30ml.

Alright so usually Fou d’Absinthe is a cool smelling green; a scent more typical ‘manly’ than ‘womanly’. Right now in the heat it is suddenly a lot more powdery, but still in a cooling way. I feel like now it is more spice than pine and it’s the other way round when the temperatures are cool. I found it okay to good before, now I like it much better.

In a nutshell: worth a revisit as seasons change.

The official notes as listed on the cardboard packaging are: wormwood, spices, patchouli, pine needles.

A note on the patch: I don’t find it to be a strong patch note, although right now it does give off a cool earthy vibe so I guess it’s got more noticable patch than your average mainstream perfume. (Funfact: I have a coworker who really dislikes patch and can sniff it out in even the fruitiest perfumes where I don’t notice a thing. He’d hate Fou d’Absinthe.)

Does it smell of absinth aka the drink? Only if you sniff straight from the bottle. 😉

Fou d’Absinthe was released in 2006 and is still available. Nose is Olivia Giacobetti.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup

L’Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup

The Story of Little Red Riding Hood by The Dandygal

Little Red Riding Hood lived with her mother in a smallish town near the woods. One day her mother said: “My girl, I have packed this basket with goodies for your grandmother who lives all alone in the woods. Bring it to her, but be careful. Do not get off the main way.”

So Little Red Hiding Hood went into the woods. Her basket was filled with honey cakes, the kind made with very dark honey and not too sweet, just like grandmother liked them. There was also a small bottle of bitters, because lets face it, that was way more useful than a bottle of red wine if you’re an old lady living alone in the woods. There were some more sweets such as liquorice plus hazels and chestnuts, for grandma liked her sweets not too sweet. There was also a small bottle of black pepper in the basket since a woman cannot life off sweets alone.

The woods were dark, but Little Red Riding Hood kept walking. She passed some lumberjacks who were busy cutting logs of wood. They waved to her and kept on working. Farther into the woods Litle Red Riding Hood was distracted by a pretty tree and the very dark green smells surrounding it when a voice called to her.

“My, my, who is this pretty girl walking all alone in the woods and smelling just so nice?”

Little Red Riding Hood turned around and saw a wolf standing on the other side of the trail. She was afraid but her mother had taught her good manners so she answered: “I am Little Red Riding Hood, Mister Wolf. And thank you for the compliment – that is a perfume from the big city. It’s Méchant Loup by L’Artisan Parfumeur.”

And thusly, the wolf learned that he liked niche perfume much better than little girls and he wandered off to get himself a full bottle. Nobody was eaten and everyone lived their perfumista life happily ever after.

The end.

L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre Extreme

L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre Extreme

Oh boy, I thought to myself. L’Eau d’Ambre Extreme, that’s going to be too much for me, right?

Then found out that adding on ‘Extreme’ is simply L’Artisan Parfumeur‘s way of denoting a flanker (see: La Chasse Aux Papillons Extreme, Mure et Musk Extreme). XD The perfumes themselves aren’t necessarily more extreme than the original. So, don’t expect this one to be like the original L’Eau d’Ambre (1978), because it’s not as far as I can tell. L’Eau d’Ambre Extreme was released in 2001, perfumer is Jean-Claude Ellena. I have the old packaging here, the newer bottles are all in that black packaging.

So, how does it smell like, other than yummy? Because I can tell you it is very yummy. It’s spicy and sweet and cozy and just very ambery. Lately I was lucky enough to be able to smell a mixture with only benzoin as a scent component in and I realized that’s the stuff I like so much. And LdAE has lots of that benzoin.* I think I also detect patchouli and vanilla, a light base of musk, possibly a touch of sandalwood. There’s more to the top note. The top is a bit harsh with it’s spices, but the perfume calms down quickly and then just wafts all those lovely base stuff. At times it also turns smoky, but not like incense. More like a really good cigar.

The official notes as listed on my packaging are: Spices, patchouli, damascena rose, benzoin, vanilla.

As a base heavy perfume this stuff lasts almost forever. I get ten or more hours on skin, longer on clothes of course. Sometimes you forget it’s here and then it starts wafting again. It smells so warm and sometimes intense, a work colleague started to look for the ‘scent lamp someone must have lighted’ until I admitted that was probably me. Luckily he didn’t complain or something.

All in all I find LdAE extremely wonderful. The only ‘downside’ is that it stopped me from buying any more amber perfumes. Everytime I sample one I ask myself ‘is this in any way better or very different to LdAE of which I own 100ml after all?’ And the answer is usually no. This shows that while I like amber I’m not crazy about it, because when it comes to orange blossom, already owning a 100ml bottle has never stopped me from acquiring more. XD


*I just realized I’ve been typing that as ‘benzoe’ in my other entries so far. Turns out that’s the German word, English is benzoin (resin). While I’m footnoting I’d like to point you to this entry in kafkaesqueblog, which is the be all end all explanation of amber notes as far as I am concerned: clicky.

L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons

L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons


Since I had discovered the brand L’Artisan Parfumeur I was kind of prone to picking up whatever I got my hands on, haha. Many people list La Chasse Aux Papillons as their favorite from the brand so not only did I blind buy it – I didn’t even check for the notes beforehand! Usually when I blind buy I at least do my research first…


But they had a small roll-on of the EdT, only 7,5 ml. That wasn’t too expensive so I thought whatever. So I rip the packaging open, pour on my wrists (as much as possible with the roll-on) and sniff.

… Is that tuberose?

Oh, no! You see, when people post their “my favorite this and that” lists I try to sample these perfumes to learn. And whenever people listed their favorite tuberoses I tried – and shrank backwards. Tuberose perfumes… they are really quite intense. That’s not the problem, though. I’s that they are suffocating. It’s like a huge cloud of tuberose was decending upon me, forcing me to lie down. So I decided tuberose was not for me, even though I felt that the smell itself was not bad at all.

Back to La Chasse: Warily, I hold my wrist away from my body and decide to just let it sit for a while. Although, from the start on, it is not suffocating at all. Also, this isn’t supposed to be a tuberose soliflore. It’s only one note among many. And it actually does smell quite beautiful. No wonder this perfume is beloved by many.

Half an hour in I am still not getting smothered by tuberose. I count this as a win. 🙂

Two hours later the smell is already faint, three hours later it is gone. Pity. This is one of my two complaints. No matter when I wear it, it never sticks past three hours. The other is the roll-on. I feel like I’m not actually getting anything out. Maybe this affects the longevity as well. I feel like in an attempt to make sure the roller ball doesn’t splash or the perfume doesn’t evaporate, they made it too tight. I really prefer spray mechanisms and I wish they made their small bottles with sprays instead. As it is, I will stick with the bigger bottles again.

So, what does La Chasse actually smell like, besides tuberose? It smells happy and airy and a tiny bit green. A spring garden with many flowers. Mandarin juice. Ylang-Ylang, and not too little of it. Something that could be linden blossom, if it isn’t an aspect of the tuberose. Orange blossom, probably. I think the orange blossom is dancing with jasmine, but if it does, it is the gentlest orange blossom/jasmine combination I ever smelled. La Chasse smells like sunlight after a long winter, which is kind of why I’m reviewing it right now.

La Chasse Aux Papillons was released in 1999 and is still available. Nose is Anne Flipo.

Combined Holiday and B-Day Gift Haul

Combined Holiday and B-Day Gift Haul

I don’t usually receive that many beauty related gifts. But last Holiday season I did get some interesting bits, so here’s my ‘gifts I got in the past month or so’ haul:


What do you get a person who has been massively obsessed with perfume lately? Perfume! And a book about perfume! XD The book is ‘Perfumes the A-Z Guide’ by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. It is hilarious and I greatly recommend it. The perfumes are L’Eau d’Ambre Extreme by L’Artisan Parfumeur and Al Oudh, also by L’Artisan Parfumeur. And Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain.


The naked bottles. 🙂


And I sort of forgot to photograph these with the outer packaging: Tom Ford Black Orchid, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup and the pretty lipstick is Givenchy Le Rouge Beige Plume. Look at the pretty packaging!

So reviews for all of these will come up… sometime. I’m sorta behind on reviews. XD

L’Artisan Parfumeur Rappelle-Toi

L’Artisan Parfumeur Rappelle-Toi


This massive pink box houses my second ever purchase from L’Artisan Parfumeur. It’s a huge box, considering it houses ‘only’ 50ml of perfume. I have the old packaging here, the newer bottles have the same look as all the other L’Artisan bottles now.


The perfume is Rappelle-Toi EdP, originally part of the Explosions d’Emotions collection, now part of the permanent line. My bottle is eight-sided, but it has the usual seven sided cap. It took me forever to realize why I couldn’t line up the sides!

Rappelle-Toi was released in 2014, perfumer is Bertrand Douchafour.

For me, this was a blind buy. Bad, I know. XD I just loved Timbuktu so much I was like what the heck. So rip the packaging open and spray with abandon.

And OH EM GEE, best smell ever? I will never ever wear anything else again. So good. Best Gardenia I ever smelled, hey.

Half an hour later: Oh, dear what is that nasty smell? Has a cat come in and marked the place? Oh no. I close all windows, make sure there’s no animal inside. Oh wait, is that me? A sniff on my wrist. BLERGH. This is awful. (That’s what you get for blind buys, eh?) Scrubbing it off? No dice. This thing stays on. But hey, after scrubbing it now smells a godly as before. Yum.

So the first thing I learn: don’t put on too much.

Second test, a day later: one single spray. Godly, best perfume ever I will never wear anything else. Half an hour later: oh, this is nasty. 😦 Whyyyyyy? Same day, two hours later: I ask several people what they think of my new perfume. Does it stink? No, they all say, smells really good.

Second thing learn: This is the kind of perfume that smells better on other people – it’s the distance that does it. Do not press nose on wrist.

Not wearing it? Not an option. This is still the most wonderful Gardenia. I make sure to spray it only on my legs.

A couple days later – the revelation: I eat dinner and grind black pepper on it. Hey, is that…? I inhale.

When I stop sneezing I am sure: Rappelle-Toi smells just like a huge noseful of freshly ground black pepper. That is the stink! And funny thing, now that my brain knows what it is smelling I find the perfume a lot more tolerable. I can wear it on my torso now. From time to time I still get the PEPPER waft, but it’s not overwhelming. It’s as if the brain only needed the reassurance, no, this is not poisonous, it’s edible. XD

Apart from the black pepper and gardenia another note I get is honey. Honey can be rich and sweet, but also have a bit of a stinky side. It’s probably part of this weird package. I don’t smell much else, I keep getting distracted by the pepper and the gardenia.

Overall this is a lovely perfume but more on the intense experience side. Luckily the sillage is not huge so it’s unlikely to assault coworkers etc. Lasting power is pretty good, around ten hours.

End of story: this might not be the best perfume for a blind purchase, but I came to like it anyway. To be honest, I kept on doing blind purchases and I was really lucky so far. There will be a lot more reviews for L’Artisan Parfumeur upcoming.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu

L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu


So I picked this one here up on a whim. I knew nothing about L’Artisan Parfumeur and nothing about this perfume. I just thought it sounded interesting. XD This is a bottle of Timbuktu EdT. I smelled it and immediately fell in love. Later on I looked the brand up and it seems this is one of the original niche perfume houses. Timbuktu was released in 2004, perfumer is Bertrand Duchafour. What I have here is the old bottle style. They have recently replaced their bottle design with black glass. Honestly I think this design here is prettier. You can still find old bottles around.

So it’s called Timbuktu, because it was inspired by the perfumer’s travels through Mali. I’ve never been to Mali so I can’t say if it is any way authentic. The packaging lists the notes as: Cardamom, benzoin, karo-karounde, papyrus wood and vetiver.

Not listed, but to me this smells strongly of frankincense and myrrhe??? The start is spicier than the drydown, so I’ll believe there is cardamom in it, even if I can’t pick it out individually. It’s lightly peppery, too. Later on the spices get quiet and it gets just so incensy to my nose. But I guess I also get the papyrus note. I’ve smelled papyrus before and while that usually dustier, I get it in this perfume. The vetiver is gentle and does not overwhelm the whole thing, as it sometimes happens with vetiver.

You know, to be comepletely honest I didn’t look at the notes list before writing this entry and I’m just so freaked out it does not list frankincense. XD

Well, no matter what is in it, it smells amazing and unusual. It does smell dry, so very dry. I have to be in the mood for it, but I am in the mood frequently. 😉

On my skin it lasts a good ten hours, although it gets close to the skin and soft at the five hour mark. The drydown is a bit sweeter, as the benzoin comes through. But it’s never a sweet perfume.

Absolutely worth a try. This was my very first L’Artisan, but certainly not the last.


List of ingredients.